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World and Press July 2022

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2 Opinion Page July 2022 | World and Press comment The hidden ugly side of the beauty industry BEAUTY For centuries, the pursuit of youthfulness and physical perfection has led to profiteering, quackery, and disfigurement. By Ben Macintyre 1 IN THEyear 1793, a wedding was held in the small German village of Wildbad. The villagers danced, toasted the happy couple, and feasted on a local delicacy known as saumagen, a cooked pig stomach filled with blood sausage. Within a few hours, 13 of the wedding guests had fallen ill with acute muscular paralysis, and six of them subsequently died. This was the first officially recognised instance of mass “sausage poisoning”. … 2 The villagers had succumbed to what was later identified as botulism, the neurotoxic protein produced by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum, the most toxic substance known: even a minuscule amount attacks the nervous system, often fatally. Botulus is Latin for sausage. 3 After the blighted wedding of Wildbad, the German doctor and poet Justinus Kerner made a close study of botulism and found it could be used therapeutically for conditions associated with an overactive nervous system. Botulinum toxin has since been used to treat cerebral palsy, spasms, overactive bladder, migraines, and crossed eyes (strabismus). Less happily, at the start of the Second World Training | mündl. Prüfung War, American military scientists explored ways to use this most potent poison as a weapon of mass destruction, a botulism bomb. 4 But the most common use of the botulinum toxin today is in Botox, injected cosmetically to reduce wrinkles by temporarily paralysing certain facial muscles. The basis of a .9 billion facial aesthetics industry, injection of botulinum toxin is the most popular nonsurgical cosmetic procedure in the world: last year, more than six million people had the treatment. 5 Botox has brought happiness and greater confidence to countless people longing to hold back the ravages of time and feel more comfortable in their skins. This is not mere vanity. Cosmetic surgery makes people richer. Individuals perceived as beautiful (however fickle and shifting that concept may be) enjoy higher earnings than those considered plain. Cosmetic surgery may flatten the playing field of opportunity, reducing the advantages enjoyed by those with natural good looks. It helps to combat ageism. But like almost every beauty treatment down the centuries, there is an ugly side to the Botox story. 6 A ‘Times’ investigation this week revealed that unlicensed practitioners are injecting young women with “black market” versions of Botox, putting them at risk of life-long disfigurement. Undercover reporters found beauticians without medical qualifications advertising facial injections of cheap and unlicensed versions of the botulinum toxin. 7 Throughout history, people have been willing to deploy almost any method, including the use of aggressive poisons, in pursuit of youth and beauty. In 1902, Sears Roebuck touted “Dr Rose’s French Arsenic Complexion Wafers”. The early face lotion “Laird’s Bloom of Youth or Liquid Pearl” promised to whiten the skin of “ladies afflicted with tan, freckles, Rough or Discoloured Skin”, but was packed with so much lead it brought on palsy. 8 For centuries, lead was a standard ingredient in cosmetics because it rendered colours even and opaque, and caused skin whitening that indicated a woman was unused to working outdoors, and thus of higher social standing. … 9 The unregulated beauty industry combined with a boom in magazine advertising at the start of the 20th century to foster a vast variety of bogus, expensive, and dangerous ways to alter face and body shapes: “paraffin wax rhinoplasty”, in which hot, liquid wax was injected into the nose and then “moulded by the operator into the desired shape”; chin and forehead straps that promised to erase double chins and wrinkles around the eyes; the “JZ Hygienic Beauty Belt” to reduce the stomach and hips. 10 Features considered to be ugly one day may be desirable the next. Irish-American girls had their noses straightened to avoid the supposedly Irish snubnosed look, with its connotations of immigrant poverty; but a generation later, women with long or arched noses wanted them delicately snubbed. Skin colour and facial characteristics were bound up with ideas of race. … 11 Most botulinum toxin treatments to hold back wrinkles are entirely harmless, psychologically beneficial, socially valuable, and, at worst, fleeting. But some may be unsafe. For centuries, the beauty industry has been shockingly under-regulated. Following ‘The Times’ investigation, Sajid Javid, the health secretary, has said officials will investigate allegations of black market Botox “to ensure no one is harmed”: surely a minimum requirement for any and every cosmetic treatment. 12 Cosmetic surgery has helped millions to feel better in their bodies. But when science promises extended youth and perfect beauty, it frequently ends in ugly misuse, profiteering, quackery, disappointment, and even disfigurement. Before anyone else agrees to be injected by an unlicensed beautician with a chemical treatment that may not be legal in this country, it is worth recalling the 18th-century wedding that went horribly wrong, and the killer German sausage of Wildbad. © The Times, London/News Licensing This article originally appeared in The Times, London. Masking Problem. | Cartoon: Dave Whamond, Canada, PoliticalCartoons.com impressum ISSN 0509-1632 0 – 1 PURSUIT OF“p´"sju…t‘ Streben nach — youthfulness Jugendlichkeit — profiteering Geldmacherei — quackery “"kwœk´ri‘ Quacksalberei — disfigurement Entstellung — to toast s.o. auf jdn. anstoßen — to feast on s. gütlich tun an — delicacy “"delIk´si‘ Spezialität — muscular paralysis “Æmøskj´l´ p´"rœl´sIs‘ Muskellähmung; s.w.u. to paralyse “"pœr´laIz‘ lähmen — subsequently “"søbsIkw´ntli‘ später — instance Fall 2 to succumb to “s´"køm‘ erliegen — botulism “"bÅtS´lIz´m‘ Lebensmittelvergiftung — neurotoxic protein “ÆnjU´r´U"tÅksIk‘ neurotoxisches P. — minuscule “"mIn´skju…l‘ winzig — nervous system Nervensystem — fatally “"feIt´li‘ tödlich 3 blighted unglückselig — to make a close study genau untersuchen — therapeutically “ÆTer´"pju…tIk´li‘ — botulinum toxin “ÆbÅtjU"laIn´m‘ Botulinumtoxin — cerebral palsy “Æser´br´l "pO…lsi‘ Zerebralparese; s.w.u. palsy Lähmung — spasm Krampf — overactive bladder überaktive Blase — crossed eyes Schielen — potent “"--‘ wirksam 4 to inject spritzen; s.w.u. injection “In"dZekS´n‘ — wrinkle “"rINk´l‘ Falte — facial “"feIS´l‘ Gesichts- — billion Milliarde — facial aesthetics “i…s"TetIks‘ nicht-chirurgische Verfahren zur Reduzierung der Hautalterung — nonsurgical “-"s‰…dZIk´l‘ nicht-operativ 5 countless unzählig — to long s. danach sehnen — the ravages of time “"rœvIdZIz‘ (fig) der Zahn der Zeit — vanity Eitelkeit — cosmetic surgery Schönheitschirurgie — to perceive “p´"si…v‘ empfinden — fickle wechselhaft — shifting veränderlich — plain unscheinbar — to flatten the playing field (fig) gleiche Bedingungen schaffen — to combat bekämpfen — ageism “"eIdZIz´m‘ Altersdiskriminierung 6 – 7 unlicensed nicht zugelassen — practitioner praktizierende(r) Arzt/Ärztin — beautician “bju…"tIS´n‘ Kosmetiker(in) — to deploy einsetzen — to tout anpreisen — arsenic “"A…s´nIk‘ Arsen — complexion Teint — wafer Waffel — bloom Blüte — to be afflicted with leiden an — freckles Sommersprossen — discoloured verfärbt — lead “led‘ Blei 8 – 9 to render machen — even gleichmäßig — opaque “´U"peIk‘ deckend — social standing gesellschaftl. Stellung — to foster fördern — bogus “"b´Ug´s‘ falsch — paraffin wax “"pœr´fIn‘ Paraffinwachs — rhinoplasty “"raIn´Uplœsti‘ Nasenkorrektur — to mould “m´Uld‘ formen — strap Band 10 – 12 supposedly “s´"p´UzIdli‘ angeblich — snub-nosed stupsnasig; s.w.u. to snub h.: in Stupsnasenform bringen — connotation Assoziation — arched gebogen — delicately “"delIk´tli‘ zart — to be bound up with verknüpft sein mit — beneficial “ÆbenI"fIS´l‘ förderlich — fleeting nur vorübergehend — health secretary Gesundheitsminister(in) — officials Behörden — allegation “ÆœlI"geIS´n‘ Anschuldigung World and Press erscheint 2 × monatlich (Juli und Dezember als Doppelausgabe) in der Carl Ed. 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World and Press | July 2022 With us or with them? In a new Cold War, how about neither. GEOPOLITICS Once proxy battlegrounds for superpowers, swaths of Africa, Asia, and Latin America are staking their independence. By Hannah Beech, Abdi Latif Dahir, and Oscar Lopez In Focus 3 1 AS THEbonds of traditional alliances fray across the globe, the Royal Thai Army, the United States’ oldest treaty partner in Asia, has cast a wide net. This year, with the world reeling from Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, Thai soldiers hosted U.S. troops for Cobra Gold, annual military exercises that are one of the largest shows of force in the Asia Pacific. A few months before, they participated in Shared Destiny, peacekeeping drills run by the People’s Liberation Army of China. And in 2020, the Thais hedged their bets further, signing an agreement for their cadets to receive training at a defense academy in Moscow. 2 The geopolitical landscape after the Ukraine invasion has often been likened to that of a new Cold War. While the main antagonists may be the same – the United States, Russia, and, increasingly, China – the roles played by much of the rest of the world have changed, reshaping a global order that held for more than threequarters of a century. 3 Governments representing more than half of humanity have refused to take a side, avoiding the binary accounting of us-versus-them that characterized most of the post-World War II era. In a United Nations General Assembly vote this month to suspend Russia from the Human Rights Council, dozens of countries abstained, including Thailand, Brazil, South Africa, Mexico, and Singapore. (The resolution succeeded anyway.) 4 Once proxy battlegrounds for superpowers, swaths of Africa, Asia, and Latin America are staking their independence. The return of a bloc of nonaligned nations harks back to a period in which leaders of the post-colonial movement resisted having their destinies shaped by imperialism. It also points to the confidence of smaller countries, no longer dependent on a single ideological or economic patron, to go their own way. 5 “Without a doubt, the countries of Southeast Asia don’t want to be pulled into a new Cold War or be forced to take sides in any great power competition,” said Zachary Abuza, a security specialist at the National War College in Washington. “As they say in Southeast Asia, when the elephants fight, the grass gets trampled.” Having to align themselves with one power or another, Abuza added, left many nations around the world “desperately poor and underdeveloped at the end of the Cold War.” 6 As a result, even the United States, the Cold War’s victor, cannot count on the support of some of its traditional partners in vocally condemning Russia for its attack on a sovereign, democratic nation. The NATO-led intervention in Libya in 2011 and the U.S. invasion of Iraq in 2003 have only heightened mistrust of the West. Both military actions left countries in those regions struggling with the political fallout for years after. 7 “The crux of the matter is that African countries feel infantilized | Infographic: Statista and neglected by Western countries, which are also accused of not living up to their soaring moral rhetoric on sovereignty and territorial sanctity,” said Ebenezer Obadare, senior fellow for Africa studies at the Council on Foreign Relations. 8 Indonesia, a sprawling democracy once ruled by a dictator favored by the United States for his anti-communist stance, has said that it will welcome President Vladimir Putin of Russia when the country hosts leading rich and developing nations at the Group of 20 meetings this year. It, too, abstained in the U.N. vote to remove Russia from the Human Rights Council. … 9 Other U.S. allies have characterized their decision to diversify as a function of American absenteeism. Last year, as China spread its vaccine diplomacy around the world, the United States was seen initially as hoarding its pandemic supplies. Before that, during Donald Trump’s presidency, the United States pulled out of the Trans-Pacific Partnership, an expansive trade pact that was meant to counter China’s way of doing business. Countries like Vietnam that had staked their reputations on joining felt betrayed, once again, by Washington. 10 Mexico, a longtime U.S. ally, has emphasized its neutrality, and President Andrés Manuel López Obrador has rejected sanctions on Russia. “Mexico’s neutrality is not neutral,” said Tony Payan of Rice University’s Baker Institute for Public Policy. “Mexico is poking Washington in the eye.” 11 Russia cannot count on automatic allegiance from its historical allies, either. Apart from a sense of autocratic camaraderie, ideology is no longer part of Moscow’s allure. Russia has neither the patronage cash nor the geopolitical clout of the Soviet Union. Venezuela, Russia’s staunchest supporter in Latin America, received a high-level American delegation on the heels of the Ukraine invasion. Nicaragua, which became one of the first countries to back Russia’s recognition of separatist regions in eastern Ukraine, has since tempered its enthusiasm. 12 During a March U.N. vote condemning Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, Cuba abstained, rather than backed Moscow, although it and Nicaragua later rejected the effort to kick Russia off the Human Rights Council. “They’re trying to walk a fine line between certainly not celebrating the invasion, but also not clearly condemning it, arguing in favor of peace,” said Renata Keller, a Cuba expert at the University of Nevada, Reno. 13 The most noticeable hedging has come from Africa, which accounted for nearly half the countries that abstained in the March U.N. vote. “We don’t know why they are fighting,” President Samia Suluhu Hassan of Tanzania said in an interview, referring to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. She added that she was “not sure” there was a clear aggressor in the conflict. … © 2022 The New York Times Company This article originally appeared in The New York Times. 0 PROXYStellvertreter- — battleground Schlachtfeld — swaths “swÅTz‘ weite Teile — to stake behaupten; s.w.u. to stake one’s reputation on s.th. (fig) sein Ansehen durch etw. steigern wollen 1 to fray bröckeln — treaty partner Bündnispartner — to cast a wide net (fig) seine Fühler in alle Richtungen ausstrecken — to reel from erschüttert sein über — show of force Machtdemonstration — destiny Schicksal — peacekeeping drill Übung zur Friedenssicherung — People’s Liberation Army Volksbefreiungsarmee — to hedge one’s bets (fig) s. nach allen Seiten absichern; s.w.u. hedging Absicherung 2 – 3 to liken to vergleichen mit — antagonist “œn"tœg´nIst‘ Gegenspieler(in) — humanity Menschheit — binary “"baIn´ri‘ dualistisch — accounting (fig) Aufrechnung — U.N. General Assembly UN-Generalversammlung — to suspend ausschließen — Human Rights Council Menschenrechtsrat — to abstain “œb"steIn‘ s. enthalten 4 – 5 nonaligned nations “Æ-´l"aInd‘ blockfreie Staaten; s.w.u. to align o.s. with s.o. s. mit jdm. verbünden — to hark back to erinnern an — to resist doing s. dagegen wehren zu tun — patron “"peItr´n‘ Förderer(-in); s.w.u. patronage cash “"pœtr´nIdZ‘ finanzielle Mittel zur Unterstützung — without a doubt zweifelsohne — desperately “"despr´tli‘ extrem 6 victor Sieger(in) — vocally “"v´Uk´li‘ entschieden — to condemn “k´n"dem‘ verurteilen — sovereign “"sÅv´rIn‘ souverän; s.w.u. sovereignty — to heighten “"haIt´n‘ verstärken — mistrust of Misstrauen gegenüber — fallout Folgen 7 – 8 the crux of the matter “krøks‘ (fig) der springende Punkt — to infantilize “In"fœntIlaIz‘ bevormunden — to neglect “nI"glekt‘ vernachlässigen — to live up to s.th. etw. gerecht werden — soaring (fig) hochfliegend — territorial sanctity “"sœNkt´ti‘ territoriale Integrität — senior fellow leitende(r) Wissenschaftler(in) — sprawling riesig — to favor unterstützen — stance Haltung — developing nation Entwicklungsland 9 allies “"œlaIz‘ Verbündete — to characterize beschreiben — to diversify “daI"v‰…sIfaI‘ s. breiter aufstellen — function Reaktion — absenteeism “Æœbs´n"ti…Iz´m‘ Abwesenheit; h.: Vernachlässigung — vaccine diplomacy “"vœksi…n‘ Impfdiplomatie (durch Bereitstellung von Impfstoffen den Einfluss im Ausland stärken) — expansive umfassend — trade pact Handelsabkommen — to counter entgegenwirken 10 – 11 public policy Regierungsführung — to poke s.o. in the eye (fig) jdm. eins auswischen — allegiance “´"li…dZ´ns‘ Loyalität — camaraderie “Ækœm´"rA…d´ri‘ Kameradschaftsgeist — allure “´"ljU´‘ Anziehungskraft — clout Einfluss — staunch “stO…nS‘ treu — high-level hochrangig — on the heels of kurz nach — to back unterstützen — recognition “Ærek´g"nIS´n‘ Anerkennung — to temper one’s enthusiasm “In"Tju…ziœz´m‘ (fig) seine Begeisterung zügeln 12 – 13 to kick s.o. off (coll) jdn. rauswerfen — to walk a fine line (fig) s. auf e-m schmalen Grat bewegen — noticeable “"n´UtIs´b´l‘ auffällig — to account for ausmachen

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